Grand Old House
100th Anniversary & Induction Dinner
100th Anniversary & Induction Dinner
Triple celebration at Grand Old House
A very special evening took place at the Grand Old House at the end of April. The premier gourmet dining society, La Chaîne des Rôtisseurs, inducted new members for the year at a gala dinner which also celebrated the restaurants 100th anniversary. The event simultaneously honoured the life and career of the restaurants most prominent chef Chef Tell, who passed away last year. Business Editor, Lindsey Turnbull reports.
Reservations for the Chaînes annual induction dinner were quickly snapped up for what proved to be an important date in Caymans culinary calendar, a night honouring Grand Old Houses late Chef Tell, a larger-than life character who touched many peoples hearts in Cayman. The evening also proved that Manager Martin Richter, Executive Chef Daniel Fink and his team, Mâitre d Lazlo Boros and Sommelier Marcellin Tschugniell were continuing the tradition of upholding an excellent standard of fine dining.
After a glass or two of elegant and crisp Laurent Perrier Brut and a selection of hors doeuvres that had everyone particularly raving about the bacon wrapped scallops, diners found their spot at the table and introduced themselves to new faces while greeting old friends.
Chef Daniels team immediately wowed the guests with an Island-spiced turtle and black tiger shrimp phyllo purse with a scotch bonnet tomato reduction and a pimento emulsion. If all this sounds a little complicated the proof was in the eating: a well balanced and exciting mix of textures (crunchy puff pastry, succulent seafood and luscious sauces) and flavours think sweet, salty, savoury and spicy all in one mouthful.
The Chaînes Vice Echanson, Ross Phillips, explained how the wines were paired with the dishes, The Chaînes Vice Conseiller Culinaire Keith Griffin, Bailli Ian Dawson-James and myself sat down to work out the pairings a few days prior to the dinner. We based our choices on the dominant features of the dishes which was not easy as most of the ingredients were flown in immediately preceding the dinner especially for the occasion. Never-the-less we were able to get a good impression of the flavours.
A 2006 Pine Ridge Chenin Blanc Viognier from Californias Napa Valley proved to be an excellent choice to pair with the first course.
Ross explained, Although Viognier makes up just 20% of the wine it adds a good deal of flavour, while the Chenin Blanc adds a sweetness. This is an off dry wine with a spiciness which we thought worked really well with the well flavoured turtle and shrimp. Its a refined and delicious wine with subtle but explosive flavours.
A soup of summer green peas with Muscovy foie gras and porcini mushroom dust soon followed, the soup a little lighter than you would have anticipated for a pea soup, yet still well flavoured. The added infusion of the foie gras was an innovative twist and was well appreciated by diners.
According to Ross, the gentle flavours of the foie gras made a perfect marriage with the subtle sweet notes from the Pine Ridge.
A glass of 2006 Chateau de Pibarnon Rosé from Bandol, France was then poured to complement the following dish. Ross describes how he came upon this wine, After a trip to France last year with my partner Margaret we discovered that this wine was incredibly popular just about everywhere we went from Lyon to Burgundy to Bordeaux. It satisfied my desire for a rounded full bodied wine while succeeding to remain delicate and light. I met the owners and was able to bring some cases to Cayman. Its an elegant wine that has a full mouth feel and goes well with lots of different dishes.
On to the fish dish and Chef Daniel and his team produced stunning presentation a delicate wild-caught European turbot dressed with potato scales and tricolour rock lobster ravioli on sautéed leek julienne and saffron tomato sauce. The rosé, with its lightness and elegance, did a good job enhancing this delicate fish dish.
After a sorbet that again had all the tastebuds on red alert (sour Cayman lime and fresh thyme leaves, sweet pasilla and a spicy chilli drizzle), diners were served a magnificent flame grilled medallion of Kobe beef tenderloin along with a gratin of Yukon Gold and Caribbean sweet potato, shitake jus and white truffle essence.
Upon diving into this dish, I was reminded that Kobe beef was incredibly expensive and therefore every morsel should be savoured, however this advice was unnecessary as the dish was perfection and I had no intentions of leaving anything on the plate. The beef cut like butter and the potatoes, shitake and white truffle flavours provided an earthy, well rounded dish that would go down in the history books as one of the best.
A 2002 Cheval des Andes from Mendoza in Argentina was chosen to create the perfect wine pairing for this dish. Made from grapes from vines in their seventies, including Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot, this wine was from a legendary vintage, according to Ross.
Definitely one to savour with food rather than to be sipped by itself, the wine exploded into action when enjoyed with the beef, its well structured tannins and nuances of spicy black cherry and concentrated dark fruit cutting through the richness of the main dish sauces like a knife through butter.
I skipped the next course of Italian Tallegio cheese with baby arucola due to my aversion to the yellow stuff, though it was well received by fellow diners who eagerly and boldly whisked the cheese from my plate.
Dessert was another example of the Grand Old House chefs immense talent. A chocolate lava cake with Madagascan vanilla beans and rum syllabub had diners surreptitiously and very un-Chaîne-like running their fingers over the plate to ensure every morsel was consumed. This was a delicious concoction which was amplified in flavour by all of the 1.6oz of the dessert wine that we were poured.
This sweet, port-like Chapoutier Banyuls from 2003 was rare and just six half litre bottles remained in Cayman, all of which were consumed on the evening, hence the small but perfectly formed portions.
Ross details this wine, This is a deep rich red wine made in the Languedoc-Rousillon region near to the Spanish border from Grenache Noir grapes. The winemakers stop the fermentation process by adding pure alcohol to the wine, producing a sweet and alcoholic wine that is just made for drinking with chocolate.
The final course brought a memorable event to a satisfying close. Chef Tell would have no doubt enjoyed the evening immensely.
Vive la Chaîne!
Sidebar
Chef Tell
Paul Erhardt gained his nickname, Tell, after appearing in school plays in his native Germany as the historical hero William Tell. He left school at the age of fourteen to begin his apprenticeship with a local restaurant. Thanks to his diligence and aptitude, he gained his first major awards at the age of 27 when he received a Gold Medal at the Cooking Olympics and was named Chef of the Year. In 1970 he also gained his Master's degree in Cooking from the University of Heidelberg. He then progressed through the ranks in some of the finest restaurants and hotels in Europe, including the Hotel Kempinski in West Berlin, the Strand in Stockholm, The Kronen Hotel in Bad Liebenzell and Pere Bise in Taillores, France.
In 1985, Chef Tell opened a new restaurant, Chef Tell's on Philadelphia's Main Line and in 1986 he opened his establishment in the Grand Cayman Islands named Chef Tell's Grand Old House. Both have been acclaimed by press and patrons alike.
During his time in Grand Cayman, Chef Tell was appointed Bailli of the Grand Cayman chapter of the Chaîne de Rôtisseurs.
In March 2000, Chef Tell was ranked number three out of the Top 10 Chefs in the world by the Arts & Entertainment Network.
Naul Bodden, proprietor of Grand Old House described a man of great stature who brought the Chaîne to Cayman. Naul said that Chef Tells stature fitted fine dining so well he knew how to entertain guests and made a point of making those diners (i.e. locals) who he knew would return feel especially welcome.
Brian Murphy, a long time friend of Chef Tell, described the late chef as a warm and caring huggable kind of a guy with a non-stop repertoire of jokes who always made you feel welcome.
Giuseppe, retired Bailli of the Chaîne said that he learned everything he needed to know about the Chaîne from Chef Tell, from whom he took over the reigns at the culinary organisation in 1998.
New moves at the Chaîne
At the Chaînes annual induction dinner not only were new members welcomed to the fold of this great and ancient society, but new officers were also sworn in, during a ceremony conducted by the Bailli Provincial, Marcello J. Oben, who flew in from Puerto Rico especially for the event.
New members inducted were: Chris Sariego Maitre Hôtelier, Stephen Wagner Chef Rôtisseur, Carl Goldner Chef Rôtisseur and Glenn Mitchell Chevalier.
New officers included a shift at the top, with Bailli Giuseppi Gatta retiring and handing over the reigns to new Bailli Ian Dawson-James, while Cheryl Pokoradi was appointed the Chaînes new Vice Chargée de Presse. Keith Griffin was appointed Vice Conseiller Culinaire, Patrick Maloir was appointed Vice Consellier Gastronomique and Mark Lewis as the new Vice Chancelier Argentier.
A very special evening took place at the Grand Old House at the end of April. The premier gourmet dining society, La Chaîne des Rôtisseurs, inducted new members for the year at a gala dinner which also celebrated the restaurants 100th anniversary. The event simultaneously honoured the life and career of the restaurants most prominent chef Chef Tell, who passed away last year. Business Editor, Lindsey Turnbull reports.
Reservations for the Chaînes annual induction dinner were quickly snapped up for what proved to be an important date in Caymans culinary calendar, a night honouring Grand Old Houses late Chef Tell, a larger-than life character who touched many peoples hearts in Cayman. The evening also proved that Manager Martin Richter, Executive Chef Daniel Fink and his team, Mâitre d Lazlo Boros and Sommelier Marcellin Tschugniell were continuing the tradition of upholding an excellent standard of fine dining.
After a glass or two of elegant and crisp Laurent Perrier Brut and a selection of hors doeuvres that had everyone particularly raving about the bacon wrapped scallops, diners found their spot at the table and introduced themselves to new faces while greeting old friends.
Chef Daniels team immediately wowed the guests with an Island-spiced turtle and black tiger shrimp phyllo purse with a scotch bonnet tomato reduction and a pimento emulsion. If all this sounds a little complicated the proof was in the eating: a well balanced and exciting mix of textures (crunchy puff pastry, succulent seafood and luscious sauces) and flavours think sweet, salty, savoury and spicy all in one mouthful.
The Chaînes Vice Echanson, Ross Phillips, explained how the wines were paired with the dishes, The Chaînes Vice Conseiller Culinaire Keith Griffin, Bailli Ian Dawson-James and myself sat down to work out the pairings a few days prior to the dinner. We based our choices on the dominant features of the dishes which was not easy as most of the ingredients were flown in immediately preceding the dinner especially for the occasion. Never-the-less we were able to get a good impression of the flavours.
A 2006 Pine Ridge Chenin Blanc Viognier from Californias Napa Valley proved to be an excellent choice to pair with the first course.
Ross explained, Although Viognier makes up just 20% of the wine it adds a good deal of flavour, while the Chenin Blanc adds a sweetness. This is an off dry wine with a spiciness which we thought worked really well with the well flavoured turtle and shrimp. Its a refined and delicious wine with subtle but explosive flavours.
A soup of summer green peas with Muscovy foie gras and porcini mushroom dust soon followed, the soup a little lighter than you would have anticipated for a pea soup, yet still well flavoured. The added infusion of the foie gras was an innovative twist and was well appreciated by diners.
According to Ross, the gentle flavours of the foie gras made a perfect marriage with the subtle sweet notes from the Pine Ridge.
A glass of 2006 Chateau de Pibarnon Rosé from Bandol, France was then poured to complement the following dish. Ross describes how he came upon this wine, After a trip to France last year with my partner Margaret we discovered that this wine was incredibly popular just about everywhere we went from Lyon to Burgundy to Bordeaux. It satisfied my desire for a rounded full bodied wine while succeeding to remain delicate and light. I met the owners and was able to bring some cases to Cayman. Its an elegant wine that has a full mouth feel and goes well with lots of different dishes.
On to the fish dish and Chef Daniel and his team produced stunning presentation a delicate wild-caught European turbot dressed with potato scales and tricolour rock lobster ravioli on sautéed leek julienne and saffron tomato sauce. The rosé, with its lightness and elegance, did a good job enhancing this delicate fish dish.
After a sorbet that again had all the tastebuds on red alert (sour Cayman lime and fresh thyme leaves, sweet pasilla and a spicy chilli drizzle), diners were served a magnificent flame grilled medallion of Kobe beef tenderloin along with a gratin of Yukon Gold and Caribbean sweet potato, shitake jus and white truffle essence.
Upon diving into this dish, I was reminded that Kobe beef was incredibly expensive and therefore every morsel should be savoured, however this advice was unnecessary as the dish was perfection and I had no intentions of leaving anything on the plate. The beef cut like butter and the potatoes, shitake and white truffle flavours provided an earthy, well rounded dish that would go down in the history books as one of the best.
A 2002 Cheval des Andes from Mendoza in Argentina was chosen to create the perfect wine pairing for this dish. Made from grapes from vines in their seventies, including Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot, this wine was from a legendary vintage, according to Ross.
Definitely one to savour with food rather than to be sipped by itself, the wine exploded into action when enjoyed with the beef, its well structured tannins and nuances of spicy black cherry and concentrated dark fruit cutting through the richness of the main dish sauces like a knife through butter.
I skipped the next course of Italian Tallegio cheese with baby arucola due to my aversion to the yellow stuff, though it was well received by fellow diners who eagerly and boldly whisked the cheese from my plate.
Dessert was another example of the Grand Old House chefs immense talent. A chocolate lava cake with Madagascan vanilla beans and rum syllabub had diners surreptitiously and very un-Chaîne-like running their fingers over the plate to ensure every morsel was consumed. This was a delicious concoction which was amplified in flavour by all of the 1.6oz of the dessert wine that we were poured.
This sweet, port-like Chapoutier Banyuls from 2003 was rare and just six half litre bottles remained in Cayman, all of which were consumed on the evening, hence the small but perfectly formed portions.
Ross details this wine, This is a deep rich red wine made in the Languedoc-Rousillon region near to the Spanish border from Grenache Noir grapes. The winemakers stop the fermentation process by adding pure alcohol to the wine, producing a sweet and alcoholic wine that is just made for drinking with chocolate.
The final course brought a memorable event to a satisfying close. Chef Tell would have no doubt enjoyed the evening immensely.
Vive la Chaîne!
Sidebar
Chef Tell
Paul Erhardt gained his nickname, Tell, after appearing in school plays in his native Germany as the historical hero William Tell. He left school at the age of fourteen to begin his apprenticeship with a local restaurant. Thanks to his diligence and aptitude, he gained his first major awards at the age of 27 when he received a Gold Medal at the Cooking Olympics and was named Chef of the Year. In 1970 he also gained his Master's degree in Cooking from the University of Heidelberg. He then progressed through the ranks in some of the finest restaurants and hotels in Europe, including the Hotel Kempinski in West Berlin, the Strand in Stockholm, The Kronen Hotel in Bad Liebenzell and Pere Bise in Taillores, France.
In 1985, Chef Tell opened a new restaurant, Chef Tell's on Philadelphia's Main Line and in 1986 he opened his establishment in the Grand Cayman Islands named Chef Tell's Grand Old House. Both have been acclaimed by press and patrons alike.
During his time in Grand Cayman, Chef Tell was appointed Bailli of the Grand Cayman chapter of the Chaîne de Rôtisseurs.
In March 2000, Chef Tell was ranked number three out of the Top 10 Chefs in the world by the Arts & Entertainment Network.
Naul Bodden, proprietor of Grand Old House described a man of great stature who brought the Chaîne to Cayman. Naul said that Chef Tells stature fitted fine dining so well he knew how to entertain guests and made a point of making those diners (i.e. locals) who he knew would return feel especially welcome.
Brian Murphy, a long time friend of Chef Tell, described the late chef as a warm and caring huggable kind of a guy with a non-stop repertoire of jokes who always made you feel welcome.
Giuseppe, retired Bailli of the Chaîne said that he learned everything he needed to know about the Chaîne from Chef Tell, from whom he took over the reigns at the culinary organisation in 1998.
New moves at the Chaîne
At the Chaînes annual induction dinner not only were new members welcomed to the fold of this great and ancient society, but new officers were also sworn in, during a ceremony conducted by the Bailli Provincial, Marcello J. Oben, who flew in from Puerto Rico especially for the event.
New members inducted were: Chris Sariego Maitre Hôtelier, Stephen Wagner Chef Rôtisseur, Carl Goldner Chef Rôtisseur and Glenn Mitchell Chevalier.
New officers included a shift at the top, with Bailli Giuseppi Gatta retiring and handing over the reigns to new Bailli Ian Dawson-James, while Cheryl Pokoradi was appointed the Chaînes new Vice Chargée de Presse. Keith Griffin was appointed Vice Conseiller Culinaire, Patrick Maloir was appointed Vice Consellier Gastronomique and Mark Lewis as the new Vice Chancelier Argentier.
